Day 6 Sunday 30 June, 2013 - 1 hr 25 min, Total 10 hr 28 min - Roof

Today I cut out the roof sections for the clock.

Day 5, Saturday 29 June, 2013 2 hr 10 min, Total 9 Hr 3 min - Sides

Today I worked on the sides of the clock.

First the sections of the pattern are taped together.  The sides are longer than a 8.5" x 11" sheet of paper so they were printed out in two sections.  After the main plan was scanned into photo shop, I drew some alignment marks on the plans so that when the sections were printed out, I would have a way to align the sections, taping them together to produce a pattern that could be glued onto the wood.

Once the pattern is glued onto the wood, I use the drill press to drill all of the holes for the internal cuts that need to be made.  Below, the pattern has been glued on the wood, and all of the holes have been drilled for the internal cuts.

The next photo is a view through the lighted magnifying glass that I use when making cuts on the scroll saw.  here several of the internal cuts have been made.

below is another shot of the work piece.  I am in the process of making internal cuts.

All of the internal cuts have been completed.  At this point, I have to cut out the sides.

The sides have been cut out.  It is now time to remove the glue that was used to attach the pattern to the wood.

below, the eraser on the left (used on sanding disks and belts to clean them) was used to remove the glue that remained on the wood after attaching the pattern to the wood.  A heat gun was used to remove the pattern.

The next shot shows the parts that have been cut out.  The glue has been removed and the parts have been sanded.

Day 4, Sunday 9 June, 2013 1 hr 0 min, Total 6 hr 53 min - Bottom shelf and shelf supports

The first parts to be cutout today are the bottom panel or shelf, and the shelf supports.  Here are the patterns for the shelf and the shelf support.

Just finished cutting out one of the bottom shelf supports

Here the bottom shelf and shelf supports are positioned to show where they fit on the Worthington wall clock.

The parts in the above photo are just placed in position with nothing holding them.

Day 3 Saturday, 8 June, 2013 1 hr 41 min, Total 5 hr 53 min - Upper back

Still working on the clock today, decided to work on the upper back section of the clock.  The pattern for the upper back of the clock was printed out on two pages that were taped together.

The pattern was then glued to the Baltic Birch plywood.  The project is being constructed using approx 1/4" inch ply.

The upper section of the back is finally cut out.

Here is how the upper back part fits with the rest of the back of the clock

The clock is taking shape.  Keep reading to follow the construction of the clock.

Day 3, Saturday 8 June, 2013 1 hr 46 min, Total 4 hr 12 min - Lower section of back

Today I will start on the lower back piece.  As I mentioned earlier, the plan for the Worthington clock was scanned into the computer in sections off of the plans.  The plans were printed on large sheets of paper that I didn't want to cut up.

The above shot shows the lower section of the back panel in adobe photo shop.  The plan will be printed out and attached to the wood so we can start cutting.  The plan only calls for 1 of these pieces to be made.

The pattern printed out on a 8.5'' x 11" sheet of paper.

Used some scissors to cut off the excess.

Cut a piece of 1/4" baltic birch plywood.

I use this Fast Tack 87 to glue the pattern to the wood.  The instructions on the "Fast Tack" say to only spray one side if it is going to be stuck on temporary.

Here is a shot of the pattern glued to the wood.  The wood was sanded before gluing the pattern on.

The next step is to drill holes to thread the blade for the inside cuts.  This particular piece has 28 inside cuts, so 28 holes need to be drilled.

Once the holes are drilled, the back is sanded again so it will lay flat on the table of the scroll saw.

I always start on the inside cuts first.

Here all of the inside cuts for this piece have been made.  Now I have to cut around the outside of this part.

The outside has been cut out, now its time to remove the pattern.

The heat gun makes it easy to remove the pattern from the wood.  It melts the glue and allows the pattern to be removed with out any problems.

After the pattern is removed, there is still glue on the wood.  It is removed using a pro-stick, a Pro-Stik is used to clean wood belt sanders, disc sanders etc.  Here you can see the glue balling up.  It removes the glue from the wood with out to much work.

Once the glue is removed, the part is sanded with 120 grit sandpaper.

Here is the completed part.

Here is how this part fits with the main back of the clock.

Day 2, Thursday 6 June, 2013 1 hr 35 min, Total: 2 hrs 26 min

Was able to work a little longer and continued working on the back of the Worthington clock.

The above shot was taken through the lighted magnifying glass.  I use it all the time and it is the only way to cut.  Using the magnifying glass, you can cut on one edge or the other edge of the line, or right down the center of the line.

 Well, all the cuts are done.  Now it is time to remove the pattern that has been glued onto the birch plywood.  Remember from a previous post that only the paper was sprayed with glue.  That makes it a bit easier to get the pattern off.

Over the years, I have tried different methods to get the pattern off of the Baltic Birch plywood.  I would pull it off, try sanding it off, and any other method that I could think of.  Usually it was a pain in the butt.

 Well, one day; and I don't know why I tried this, I decided that I would get my heat gun out that I use to shrink "Monocoat" on radio controlled airplanes that I used to build, and try heating up the pattern and glue.

After the glue was heated, the pattern came right off.  Now it was really easy to get the pattern off the Birch plywood.  One problem remained, there is still a layer of glue on the Baltic birch plywood.  I thought about it for a minute and then tried using a Pro-Stik Abrasive Belt & Disc cleaner.

Using the Pro-Stik is just like using a giant eraser.  It took the film layer of glue right off of the wood.  Just use the pro-stik like an eraser, and rub it over the wood.

The glue rolls up into a ball and sticks to the Pro-stik.  You can pull the balls of glue off the end of the pro-stik when you are done.  The reason that I use the Pro-stik is so the glue does not gum up the disk sander.

After the glue film is removed from the plywood, I lightly sand the piece with some 120 grit sand paper.

And here is the final shot of the back piece for the Worthington scroll saw wall clock

Well, I am done with this piece for the night.  Tomorrow, I'll start on the next piece.